Being twice as big as the state of Texas in the USA, Peru varies from desert to jungle climates, from sea level to an endless array of peaks that are more than 6000 meters (19,685 feet). Ancient cultures are as old as those of Egypt are as well preserved, replete with tombs, mummies, and elaborate arts and crafts. Architecture is traditional and modern, color abounds, parks are found everywhere, and the people are friendly and gracious! Accommodations are very comfortable and affordable. The cuisine is exceptionally good and freshly prepared, and reported in Bon Appétit magazine as the best in The Americas. Produce and grains are usually grown locally. It’s a Farmer’s Market at its best!

Head North after Machu Picchu. Peru is blessed with many other unforgettable sites, many equally spellbinding and much less visited. Some travelers are limited to guided tours to a small slice of Peru because they have only a week or so. Take an extra week or more and branch out and travel on your own!

It is very easy to create your own private tour of Peru, far from guided tour land. Just pick up a copy of Lonely Planet Peru or another excellent guidebook and get going! And spend at least two weeks, more if possible. If starting from the USA, the jet lag is minimal since Peru is in the same time zone as New York City.

There is much more to discover. In the next paragraphs, we suggest some places you will want to visit, not only for their character but also for the ancient sites, geographical wonders, photography hotspots, the people, and the cultural “musts” nearby. In the future, we plan to write separate stories about each of these areas so be sure to return to Your Travel Gossip, click the Peru tab, and read everything of interest while planning your trip. In addition, we will write about how to plan easily your own tour of the area.

Trujillo. Not only is this a friendly and lovely Colonial city, it is an excellent place to anchor when traveling to the many ruins, museums, churches, mansions, and picturesque small towns in the region. Western travelers will find cappuccinos, croissants, pizza, essentially the same kinds of cuisine found in an American, Canadian, or European city, PLUS very good ceviche. Even surfboard rentals and surf lessons can be easily found.

Surrounding area. From a center in Trujillo, you can easily visit Chan Chan (Chimú culture),  including the Tschudi Complex; Huaca (temple) Esmeralda; Huaca Arco Irís; the Temples of the Sun and the Moon; and la Huaca El Brujo / la Huaca Cao Viejo (tomb and museum of the Lady of Cao). The site museums display what archaeologists have unearthed from these enlightened, highly spiritual cultures whose arts and crafts are incredibly beautiful and memorable. There is also a grim element throughout, making us wonder what the ancient people were afraid of, perhaps ‘the devil’ in another guise.

The site and museum of the Lady of Cao, the recently discovered burial site of a high-ranking woman, is a must-see. The partially restored ruins offer a glimpse into highly intelligent people and a sophisticated society that will cause you to question everything you learned in your history classes. The beautifully preserved mummy of the Lady is like none other. (We encourage you to buy the DVD at the museum!)

Chiclayo. Only a few hours from Trujillo, Chiclayo offers friendly people, good food, and archeological explorations and museums that will continue to shake up any previous ideas about ancient, ‘primitive’ cultures as you explore ruins on a par with ancient Egypt! Three or four days in Chiclayo are just right because you can do a lot of walking if you so choose.

Surrounding area. Once based in Chiclayo, the first thing you will want to do is ‘get out of town’ and follow the archaeologists. Be sure to visit at least:

• Lambayeque and the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán and the Bruning Museum. The Museo Tumbas Reales, a truly incredible new museum, presents the tombs just the way they were discovered, from the top down. The richness of the culture is a must-see. While in Lambayeque, take time to dine at El Cantaro restaurant. One dish in particular, sudado de pescado or fish stew, may be the best version of that dish in all of Peru.
• At Sipán, you can view the actual tombs which have been restored to show the burials. We developed a deep admiration for the archaeologists’ ceaseless and long work. Watch for future finds in this area.
• Túcume is another site that can be explored along with the accompanying museum of Ferreñafe. More than 20 pyramids have been discovered, of which three have been extensively explored. There is an excellent opportunity to hike around the area.

The Mercado Modelo in Chiclayo. This is an enormous market where one can find just about anything, including  an array of Peruvian crafts, meat and produce, knock-offs of designer jeans and t-shirts, as well as an excellent selection of herbal remedies and a witches’ market. Be sure to bring your camera. While we encountered a few people proclaiming to be healers, including a scowling man who said he was a shaman, we do not recommend doing business with them. Instead, find a reputable healing institute.

We have used several of the local tour agencies and find them reputable. Our English speaking guide was exceptionally good and the prices are reasonable. Once we had taken a tour that included Lambayeque, we learned from our hotel how to get there on a collectivo and we returned several times to re-visit the museums and dine again at El Cantaro.

Chachapoyas. This friendly colonial town, full of excellent restaurants and cafés, is hard to leave! Intending to stay two or three nights and visit the ruins at Kuélap, we spent a week and that was too little time. Fortunate to arrive at the beginning of a regional festival, we enjoyed that for three days and also explored ancient sites and natural wonders. Truly, we ran out of time before we saw all of the places to visit. Do take time to visit the museum on the plaza.

Surrounding area. Whether you want to hike to the base of one of the tallest waterfalls in the world, explore ancient burial sites, search for the spatule-tail hummingbird, view mummies, or walk through ancient cities, this is an ideal location. Places you must consider include:

• One of the older civilizations in Peru (800-1470 AD) inhabited the fortress or citadel of Kuélap, a cliff-perched, cloud-forest retreat built in an area so remote that it proved to be nearly impenetrable. It took a decade for the Incas conquer these people and they succeeded only because of a series of drought years. Definitely on a par with Machu Picchu, the setting reveals a different yet intriguing architecture and culture. Much of Kuélap, including the royal tombs, remain to be explored by archaeologists.
• Karajía, a funerary site where the mummies of dignitaries, along with artifacts, were buried in eight joined sarcophagi, each of which looks like an abstract individual with an exaggerated jaw and brow. Located on a high cliff above a former town, they seem to peer down on one. Built of wood, straw and clay, they almost appear to be lost and lonely figures. Each is eight feet tall and painted with figures.
• Gocta waterfall, which caught world attention in 2005 when it was finally measured at 771 meters (2531 feet), is said to be one of the highest in the world. The falls is most reached from Chachapoyas by taking a tour. A drive out in the van is followed by a long, somewhat difficult hike of about two hours. The area is picturesque, especially the view from the town of Cocachimba. This is a great opportunity to see birds such as the toucan the guide pointed out.
• Revash, funerary buildings near the town of Santo Tomás. We did not visit this site but heard positive reports from a couple who did.
• Leimebamba is the site of a mummy museum and numerous architectural ruins. The local people recommend it but we did not have enough time to visit.

Moyobamba. Lower in altitude than Chachapoyas (and warmer), Moyobamba is the orchid capital of Peru. Residents are outgoing, lodging is excellent, food is top quality, and the town invites one to stay and enjoy. If you love orchids, make a visit to AgroOriente, an orchid grower and seller in Moyobamba. Enjoy a few exquisite, regional meals at La Olla de Barro and pastries at Orquídeas.

Surrounding area. We strongly recommend that, at a minimum, you explore the Waqanki Orchid Center, enjoy a trip into the jungle with the Tingana EcoTourism center, and soak in natural hot springs.

• Waqanki Orchid Center is a reserve for native orchids and has recently built a hummingbird observation area. A guided tour is recommended as there are many species orchids to enjoy, most in their natural habitat and a few transplanted to make them easier to view. For the more adventuresome, there are half-day and whole-day hikes through the area.
• Tingana EcoTourism, booked through Tingana Magic, is a beautiful place to spend a day, exploring the jungle by dugout canoe and getting a view of monkeys, birds, orchids, and more. The meals are excellent and the center is unique in that it encourages farmers in the area to think always of the environment as they plant and cultivate.
•  Los Baños Termales de San Mateo are close to Waqanki and can be visited on the same day. There is a good café there. Be sure to try out all the baths are they are different temperatures. The bottoms are natural so take water shoes if your feet are sensitive.

These are only a few of the places to visit in Northern Peru. Treat yourself to something ‘off the beaten path’! Our next article will include tips on planning your trip to Northern Peru.

The Zion Narrows hike is an incredible adventure through one of the most spectacular gorges in the United States. The Narrows is a slot canyon and, in the section where the walls

The Narrows

pinch in, the colorful canyon walls tower above the Virgin River.

At the time, I was in Las Vegas with my wife for a few days of relaxation. It is only a little over 160 miles to Zion from Vegas. So after our stay of fantastic four days in Vegas, we headed to Zion.

We arrived late Thursday afternoon. To our surprise the Zion campground was full on a Thursday! It turned out to be two days off for schoolchildren in Utah. Now what? We ended up camping in the rough in a forest-service area not far from Springdale, as recommended by a ranger. This was not too bad a solution for one night, although we sure missed running water and toilet facilities!

The next morning, we got up at the first light and rushed to the Zion campground and found a spot immediately. We quickly put up our tent and went into Springdale for a coffee at Café Soleil, a favorite coffee stop.

As soon as it was time for the opening of the backcountry desk in the Zion National Park Visitor Center, I headed there to secure a permit for The Narrows, absolutely required for the hike. I wanted to be sure to be there early because I knew that at certain times of the year a limited number of permits are available (http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/walk-in-permits.htm). I felt pretty confident since I was the first person in line and I was successful in obtaining the $10 dollar permit.

The flow for the river was 67 cfs (cubic feet per second) when I applied, so I knew that condition was okay. The rangers will not issue permits if the flow is above 120 cfs.

Most people plan to take a two-day trip because it is a long, difficult hike. Rangers assign two-day hikers one of the eleven camp sites. I was assigned a small camp, number 5, because I was going solo.

Next, I needed to arrange a shuttle ride to the start of the hike at Chamberlain’s Ranch. I used Zion Adventures and the cost was $29 dollars. (If you have a high-clearance vehicle, you can drive yourself but you need to come back to Chamberlain’s Ranch to pick up your vehicle.)

Zion Adventures also rents the gear necessary for the hike, for example, canyoneering boots, neoprene socks, and a dry bag, which I reserved at a cost of $41 dollars. The dry bag went inside my pack with everything I needed for an overnight trip. I had a wetsuit with me but I could have rented one if necessary.

I spent the rest of this preparation day getting my gear ready and picking up last-minute food items. The best place in Springdale to get groceries is at Sol Foods Supermarket.

For a dinner treat, we decided to get a pizza at Flying Monkey, across the parking lot from Sol Foods Market. They have really excellent pizza and local beers on tap.

The next morning, I had to be at Zion Adventures an hour before my shuttle ride departure time so that I had plenty of time to pick up my rented gear and rearrange my backpack. Around 9:30, the driver arrived, ready to go. She looked over my gear and advised me to rent a second polypropylene top because the temperature of the water was 47 degrees. Not wanting to get chilled, I agreed.

I decided not to bring a stove and took only foods that needed no cooking. My meals would consist of nuts, jerky, Clif Bars, and three peanut butter sandwiches. Yum! This turned out to be fine for me but ultimately others need to make their decision based on personal tastes and dietary requirements. As it turned out, I kind of missed the stove because it was cold the night I camped and a warm drink may have been nice.

Once on the way, it took about two hours to drive to the trailhead, most of that time spent on a dirt road. I was surprised to learn that I was the only one going to Chamberlain’s Ranch! I had not needed to rush for a permit and I knew right then that I would be isolated and on my own for the hike.

The trailhead was bare, decorated with only a few toilets. I walked on a dirt road for the first three easy miles. Knowing that I was on private land, I was respectful of the landowners and stayed on the road. The road eventually veered down to the river. This was where the fun began.

The river flow here was probably half of the 67 cfs so I decided not to put on my wet suit or canyoneering boots. I walked that first day in my Keen river sandals and shorts.

The canyon was wide when I first started out and slowly narrowed down. The hike through here was quite beautiful. In mid-October, the cottonwood trees were beginning to change

Upper Narrows | Fall Colors

color to dazzling reds and yellows. Because I wanted to be certain to get to my campsite before dark, I dared not stop to take many photographs.

I encountered the first real obstruction above Deep Creek where a huge logjam blocked my passage. I had to decide whether to swim a deep hole or try to climb over the logjam. Swimming would have meant putting on my wetsuit. I climbed over with much difficulty.

Not far downstream, I caught up with two other hikers, a man and woman. I was surprised to see anyone at all. I spoke to them briefly and continued downriver until I arrived where

came in to the Virgin River. This amount of water added considerably to the flow of the river. The crossings became more difficult and the water swifter, deeper, and colder, often up to my knees.

It was starting to get late in the day, so I pressed on as fast as I could travel. I wanted to get to camp around four in the afternoon. My skin was feeling the colder air temperature and, walking in deeper water, I was starting to feel quite chilled. I still had not put on my wetsuit or boots.

I finally made it to camp number 5. I ate, put up my tent, and got into it as quickly as possible. I was starting to get really cold and just wanted to get into my sleeping bag. Once in my bag, I started to warm up.

Deep Creek

I lay there thinking that the next day was going to be harder because most of the time I

Camp 5

would be in the water. When morning sky brightened up, I grabbed my wetsuit and put it on in the tent. I was a little worried about getting cold. Once dressed, I broke camp and headed down the river. Once I got walking, I realized I was going to be plenty warm.

For the rest of the hike, it seemed like I just crossed from one side of the river to the other, using trails others has forged when they had crossed the river. As I made my way downstream, I had to go over huge rocks and under logs to avoid swimming in the cold river.

Once I passed Big Springs, I ran into two of the deepest holes of the river. The water was up to my chest. At one of those holes, I had to decide whether to swim or find a way to climb over a truck-sized rock that blocked the river. Miraculously, a woman appeared on top of the rock and helped me up. After that, I started seeing other hikers coming up the river just to explore The Narrows for one day of adventure.

Big Springs

At this point, the canyon walls really started to pinch in so I spent the rest of the hike walked in the river for the rest of the hike. The Narrows, or what some people were calling Wall Street, is a natural wonder. The red and white sandstone walls towered above me, reaching a thousand feet or more to touch the dark blue sky far above. This is what I had come to enjoy and found the energy to take a few pictures, many fewer than I had imagined I would take.

Orderville Canyon came in from the left. Once I passed it and started seeing even more people coming upstream, I knew I was finishing one of the most awesome hikes in the United States or perhaps even in the world.

When I arrived at the end of the river hike, I still had a mile to go on a paved trail to get to where I caught the shuttle bus to get back to the Visitors’ Center. From there, it was just a short walk back to the campground and my wife. Other travelers were catching a shuttle into Springdale, another option at that bus stop.

If you are going to try this hike yourself, remember that this is a different canyon at different water flows. Make sure to get the latest forecast and other information from the backcountry office at the Ranger Station and also from local guides.

By the way, Orderville Canyon is a popular, easy yet technical slot canyon that runs into Zion Narrows and takes only a day from start to finish. This is a great option for those who do not want to stay overnight.

Getting There:
The best way to get there is to fly to Las Vegas, rent a car, and drive. It takes about three hours to drive to Zion National Park from Las Vegas. Here is a map on how to drive there: http://www.mapquest.com/mq/9-_4VsYH8iH8qXsgjd. There are many places to stay in Las Vegas, ranging in price from expensive to a very reasonable price for a great room. I often use Hotels.com to find a room.

Here are two maps the rangers give out with information on the Narrows Campsites and Campsite Descriptions. Click on maps for larger sizes.

Gocta Falls is only about two hours from Chachapoyas, in northern Peru. The best way to see it is to hire one of the tourist services in Chachapoyas. I used Raymillacta Travel, located right on the Plaza. This tour is not very expensive, about 40 soles, including a guide. The guides typically speak only Spanish. A van picked us up at the tour agency.

We traveled to the small village of Cocachimba where the hike begins. Our small group included two young women who were in the Peace Corps in Peru and me.

Once in Cocachimba, we met our guide and left on our hike. The hike to the Gocta Falls takes anywhere from 2 to 3 hours (about 5.5 km or 3.5 miles each way) depending on what kind of condition you are in. It is not really an easy hike; there is a lot of up and down and it gets hot and humid. Remember to take lots of water, sun block, and snacks.

If you prefer, you can rent a horse for 25 soles round trip. We were passed by quite a few people using this option, probably because the return hike is a steep climb and seems more difficult than going in. It is important to realize, however, that the horses are not allowed to go to the end of the trail, so riders still have to hike 30-50 minutes.

Initially, we walked through agricultural fields for about an hour and then we moved into the very beautiful cloud forest area. We had initially seen the falls from the village and enjoyed more views of them from time to time on the trail.

We were lucky enough to see a toucan, which the guide pointed out to us, way up in the canopy. The toucans are heard much more often than they are seen so we thought we were quite lucky to have seen one.

I was there in June of 2011 and there was a modest flow in the stream. The base of the falls is very beautiful and those who bring swimsuits can enjoy a swim. I did not have one so I just walked around the base of the falls, cooling off in its spray. Our guide pointed out some fossils in the area and told a story of a mermaid who is said to live in the pool, her silver hair spilling over the edge of the lowest section. Some of the locals believe she may be angry about foreigners coming to the falls.

I think the hike is well worth it because of the natural beauty of the area. Out of all the things to do when visiting Chachapoyas, this is the second most interesting after visiting the fortress of Kuelap.

Getting there.

My wife arrived in Lima after I’d been traveling in the south of Peru and the central Andes for over a month. She gets sick at high altitudes so she decided to avoid that part of the trip. We had made plans to travel together along the north coast of Peru and then into the northern Andes for a month before I had left. I had bought a small laptop computer to take with me so we stayed in contact using Skype.

Once she arrived, we spent a few days in Lima so she could get acclimatized before we headed up the north coast of Peru to Chiclayo. We decide to break the trip up here since it already took us twelve hours on a bus just to get here. We chose to travel with Cruz del Sur since they have the most comfortable buses.

We had stopped in Chiclayo on our 2009 trip to South America, so we were familiar with it. We rather enjoyed the city and the small simple hotel we stayed. The real draw of the area, however, is the nearby ancient ruins and the fantastic museum in Lambayeque.

From Chiclayo to Chachapoyas, we chose Movil Tours bus company. The journey took us all night. Make sure when buying tickets you get the seats on the first floor (bus cama or sleeper seats) not the more rigid seats upstairs. The cama seats are more expensive but always worth the extra money if you are traveling for extended periods of time.

It seemed like a near-fatal mistake we made when purchasing our tickets to Chachapoyas. We were really uncomfortable the first few hours until passengers started getting off and we could spread out. We are tall North Americans and the seats were very cramped for us, plus we had two small packs we kept on our laps for security purposes.

We arrived in Chachapoyas at the crack of dawn. We then dug out our Lonely Planet guide book and picked out a hotel to stay at. Los Orquideas was our first choice and, at 6 AM, the kindly manager was awakened by the cabbie and graciously gave us a room. This really nice hotel could only put us up for one night. The next day we found another enjoyable hotel in the center of town, La Casona Mosante, housed in beautiful old colonial mansion.

Check out our story: Tourist Festivals in Peru 2011 – Chachapoyas

Click on map for larger image.

Circuito Turistico

]]> http://www.yourtravelgossip.com/?feed=rss2&p=1324 0 http://www.yourtravelgossip.com/?p=1296 http://www.yourtravelgossip.com/?p=1296#comments Wed, 02 Nov 2011 22:53:23 +0000 Sandra http://www.yourtravelgossip.com/?p=1296 Continue reading →]]> If you are go, go, go in Las Vegas, looking for constant stimulation and parties, read no further! However, if you go to enjoy the entertainment, good food, shopping plus want time to relax by the pool, read on.

Las Vegas may well be called the hotel capital of the world. No matter which major street you travel on, you are sure to see hotels and motels or at least billboards advertising them. Each travel destination seems to be rated the best by someone! Where is the best place to stay?

As said in the first paragraph, that choice depends a lot of your intentions. While the casino hotels look glamorous, often featuring cutting-edge architecture and decor, their indoor atmospheres can become tiring, particularly relating to healthy air. Our noses generally pick up some chemical scents and, as they say, what you smell is already in your body systems! Yes, there are a lot of processes used to clean out cigarette smoke and other disagreeable contaminants, but second-hand smoke is usually unavoidable in the casino hotels.

Tuscany Suites & Casino

This is one reason why a smaller inn such as the Tuscany Suites Las Legas can be a win-win. Not only are the rooms entered without going through a casino filled with smokers, the pools and some eating places are reached by walking out of doors. Beachfront Coffee, which features a coffee bar and also makes smoothies and light meals, is close to the larger pool. Other restaurants are just inside the doors and well ventilated.

Rooms at the Tuscany are large and beds are comfortable and in excellent condition. When we were there in 2010, our room’s refrigerator and microwave came in handy because we enjoy snacking on fruits and vegetables throughout the day. For those traveling with children, this setup seems to be even more of a plus. We enjoyed relaxing in our room and were able to sleep in some mornings due to the quiet location.

In addition to the regular pool at the Tuscany, there is also a lap pool that was uncrowded during our stay, making it easy not only to swim laps but also to enjoy the sun in peace and quiet. All the children present were at the big pool.

Beachfront Coffee was our choice for a light morning meal or a cookie and coffee in the afternoon. For a full meal, we enjoyed The Cantina for Mexican-style meals and Tuscany Gardens for quality Italian cuisine. The day we left, we tried Marilyn’s Cafe which is a slightly upscale cafe but were somewhat bothered by cigarette smoke coming from the nearby areas.

Located at 255 E. Flamingo, about 1 1/2 long blocks from Bally’s and Paris Las Vegas, the Tuscany Suites & Casino is a good value not only because of price but also because it allows one to rebalance and recuperate in a relaxing, peaceful environment. On our 2010 visit, we moved there from a big-name hotel / casino and were delighted. We found the best rates through this site:

For more about the Tuscany, click here Hotels.com.

The light shows differ and are shown every 30 minutes, often featuring changing colors and flowers, but the most entertaining is the huge frog, wearing a Garth Brooks cowboy hat and belting out one of Brooks’ most popular songs. We always find this entertaining and it has become a favorite stop of our Las Vegas travels.

Just to tempt you to visit the Wynn and hear “Garth Frog,” John recorded this video, below. And after visiting the bar, be sure to wander through the
Wynn Las Vegas and see just how beautiful and visitor oriented it is!

It is only logical to check out which shows other travelers enjoyed and which they did not. Travel gossip at its best – everyone we met in espresso bars, restaurants, the pool or even on the shuttle was very willing to share their experiences. Why not? Word of mouth is still the best way to get a referral!

Since 1995, we have often used one discount agency, Tix4Tonight. Not only is information available online at Tix4Tonight.com, their staff members at their numerous locations have seen a lot of shows and have taken the time to advise us on which shows are most popular, which nights are best, whether to go to the first or second show, and how to get the best seats! All this while getting a discount. What is not to like? Just be sure to ask lots of questions and to pay attention.

We have used a number of their locations, including the one at Fashion Show Mall, the Giant Coke Bottle, and Town Square. Each time we have gotten to know the staff, been specific about what we wanted, and asked for their recommendations. They have always pleased us and gone beyond their job requirements to get us a fabulous deal. In one case, they even recommended that we rush to a different location for better seats!

In October of 2011, we were fairly certain we wanted to see Cirque du Soleil’s Viva Elvis, unless we could get discount tix to see Elton John. We trusted the staff member at the Town Square office to let us know what was good, when, why, and for the best savings. Elton John was not a discounted show, but she did let us know that the second show was the best for Cirque du Soleil (the performers were not saving their energy for another show) and that if we purchased tickets more than 24 hours ahead, we could get to the box office to claim our tickets and reserve the very best cheap seats, right next to the expensive area.

That is exactly what worked; our seats were about three feet from the ones of people who had paid at least twice as much and our visibility was perfect. The show is very well choreographed and, assuming you enjoyed the life and times of Elvis as much as we, an excellent value. Plus, it is located in the Aria where one can enjoy a pre- or post-show visit to Jean Philippe, home of outrageous French chocolate desserts! A delicious way to round out the evening. http://www.arialasvegas.com/dining/casual-dining.aspx

For more about Viva Elvis!, click here. http://www.cirquedusoleil.com/en/shows/viva-elvis/default.aspx

In addition to a comfortable bed and spacious bathroom, the Gold Coast Hotel and Casino offers a shuttle to Bill’s Casino in the heart of Las Vegas Boulevard, often called The Strip. We were dropped off right by Bally’s, Paris Las Vegas, Caesar’s Palace, and within easy walking distance of many excellent shows, including many by Cirque du Soleil.

Mornings can be relaxing at the Gold Coast Hotel and Casino when you enjoy breakfast and then go to the swimming pool or the small gym for some exercise. Not too many were lap swimming so there was plenty of room in the pool. The sun seemed to linger in the afternoons so the large array of lounge chairs was much appreciated.

With all the excellent food available, body movement is definitely called for. TGI Friday’s offers a varied selection of meals, including breakfast, and Kate’s Korner Deli and Ice Cream provided a variety of ice cream flavors that we enjoyed after the 80-degree outside temperatures. We did not try all of the restaurants but did also enjoy Ping Pang Pong, the Chinese restaurant whose menu offers an array of dishes in Mandarin, Szechuan, and Cantonese styles, among others. Dim Sum is available at certain times of the day.

At this time, the
Gold Coast Hotel and Casino is offering fabulous deals on the rooms. Do not hesitate to take advantage of these specials right now because you will be glad you did.

In June 2009, we had intended to travel from Vilcabamba to Peru via the remote, alpine route through Jaén, Peru. As we were making arrangements, a couple from Belgium arrived from Peru and said theirs was the last bus allowed to travel because of a civil uprising. Sadly, it was a conflict in Bagua Grande between the indigenous people and the government over a decision by President Garcia to allow foreign companies to drill for oil and mine in territories that were supposedly closed to such development. Over two days, more than 50 lives were lost. Travelers were warned by the US government, Peru, and Ecuador to stay away. Out flight would leave from Lima in five weeks and we decided we had better spend as much time as necessary in Ecuador until we knew whether the confrontation would spread.

We stayed in Vilcabamba four more days and the situation did not change; no buses were leaving, the outlook was poor. The conflict was a serious one and would take quite some time to settle. Time to plan a different trip.

Le Rendezvous Hostel in Vilcabamba is one of those settings where guests easily connect and we spoke with everyone staying there, asking about their favorite destinations in Ecuador. While we knew we could return to delightful Cuenca, we were looking for something unusual. A German scientist mentioned an eco-lodge he had enjoyed that was in the jungle several hours from Zamora but he could not recall the exact name! With the help of a delightful jeweler we had met, we were able to track down a website for the eco-lodge. We connected with one of the principals and found that we were welcome to come that very weekend because a work party would be there. The eco-lodge was not open all the time but primarily by group reservation.

There was a slight problem: if we took the bus to Zamora and then on to Las Orquideas, we would need to hire a boat to take us the rest of the way! And it would have to travel in the dark. Not comfortable with that one! Another option was to pay to travel by car with the work crew. The rate was not that high and much simpler.

Once we agreed, we had to travel to Zamora, stay overnight, and catch the ride the next day. Here we were, going into an area we knew nothing about with people whose eco-lodge was so new that evaluations were not even found online! Well, we would be among the first to write about it!

Zamora was delightful, even though our hotel was not the best ever. The bed was one of the oldest we had encountered but the hotel staff members were cheerful and helpful. A partner in the eco-lodge wanted to meet with us to discuss the trip, which we took as a good sign. He was pleasant, matter of fact, and mostly wanted to know what we liked to eat andn drink. He spoke little English and was patient with our Spanish. All looked good.

We did not realize what a long and arduous trip it would be! We left around 5 with four people besides ourselves. No one seemed to be ready on time and it got later and later, meaning that we were traveling primarily at night! The further we went, the narrower the roads became, the fewer the lights, and the worse the driving conditions. Thank goodness for the Toyota van in good condition!

At one point, we were traveling through heavy mud, sliding as much as progressing ahead, a drop-off to the river on one side and a cliff on the other. Thank heavens that Carlos was an excellent driver! After a while, my mind got weird on me: what in the heck were we doing here with quite a bit of cash, in an unknown place, with complete strangers, nobody knew where we were, heading into the jungle at night??? For the first time ever in decades of travel, I began to experience anxiety. My heart started racing, a headache was coming on, and my stomach got upset. Not pleasant. I said a prayer for safety and ended it with, “Show me a sign that all is safe.”

We came over a hill and the entire left horizon was filled with the Big Dipper! It was so close

Cabañas Yankuam – Zamora, Ecuador

it seemed I could step onto a lower star. My jaw dropped and a smile came over my face. All was well. Better than well.

The weekend would turn out to be one of the best of our 100-day trip and our hosts were absolutely fabulous. More on that in the next post.

My trust in travel gossip was renewed. When our goals are clear, things have a way of working out just fine.

- Sandra

Click on map for larger image.

Leafcutter ants carry huge loads

I apologized to the likely dead or dying ant and its kind. Despite my intentions to end any “ant karma”, leafcutter ants seemed to seek me out from that day on. When we left three days later, my skin showed nearly ten bites, of which only the first was warranted.

Surprisingly, I may have discovered why in an article on Oprah.com about 10 Marvels of Our World – 10 Wonders of Our World. The author, Catherine DiBenedetto, pointed out that these ants build underground megalopolises in the humid climates of North and South America, perhaps as large as 700 square feet. She goes on to say, “Scientists refer to colonies like this as superorganisms because each worker is like a cell programmed to perform a specific task in an elegantly complicated system only Mother Nature could design.”

Could it be that the ants are so connected that my killing of one ant became known among all similar workers? That I joined a list of enemies or predators? Not wanting to sound paranoid, I do believe something supernatural was going on for ants to race a foot or two just to bite me days later! It could not be a coincidence.

If you are comfortable hiking on your own, the easier hikes in the canyon are simple enough to coordinate yourself. On the other hand, if you think you prefer to use a guide service, there are literally dozens of travel agencies lining the streets close to the city center of Arequipa. They offer 1, 2, and 3 day trips to the Colca Canyon.

I am an experienced hiker and have done many hikes on my own into the Grand Canyon in Arizona. I am also close to 65 years old. Much to my surprise, I found the easier of the hikes in the Colca to be a lot less strenuous than what I had done in the Grand Canyon.

Getting there. It’s easy enough to get to the Colca Canyon on public transportation. To arrive at a decent hour, it is a good idea to get to the bus terminal (terminal terrestre) in Arequipa very early in the morning. I arrived before 6:00am. All buses heading to Colca Canyon leave from here. I choose the Renya bus but there are many others leaving at different times.

By leaving early, you will arrive at Chivay in three hours and can break up your trip by staying there overnight or you can continue on three more hours to Cabanaconde where the hikes start.

Note: There are two terminals at the bus station in Arequipa. The old one serves all the bus lines whereas the new one just serves the long distance buses such as Cruz del Sur, Use the old terminal for a bus to the Colca Canyon.

I chose to stay overnight in Chivay because I wanted to visit the hot springs there. I stayed at the Hostal Anita right on the plaza, one recommend by Lonely Planet (South America travel guide books). It was the right decision! . To sample the local cuisine, try their breakfast of alpaca steak and eggs.

The hot springs are very nice and exceptionally well taken care off. They were so nice I ended up spending two days in Chivay so that I could enjoy them a bit longer. I suggest that you plan on that, although it may even be a better idea to stop on the way out to soak our sore muscles.

To get from Chivay to the start of the hike in Cabanaconde, simply show up early at the bus terminal and catch the local bus.

Staying in Cabanaconde. In Cabanaconde, I stayed at Pachamama Backpacker Hostal, which was comfortable with all the basics. They had exceptionally good food, which I took advantage of since restaurants are rare in that town.

I hung out for a day in Cabanaconde, gathering information on the hikes into the canyon. Pachamama Hostal personnel gave me a map showing the canyon’s major trails, very helpful for planning my hike. I chose to do a three-day loop hike, leaving from Cabanaconde and retuning back there.

I spent time that day getting my pack ready for the hike and deciding what to leave behind at the hostal. I took my tent and sleeping bag and other camping items but really did not use them because there are plenty of places to stay in the canyon. The only reason I took my camping gear was because I thought that, on my first time hiking in this area, it would be safer to have everything I need to survive a night or two. Now that I am familiar with the area and have stayed at great hostels, I would leave all camping equipment behind, making the load a lot lighter.

The hike into the Canyon. Start the three-day hike by walking east of town towards Cruz del Condor. When you get to the big bend in the road, on your left you will see Mirador San Miguel. This is the start of the hike, where the trail drops into the canyon.

It is about 3 to 31/2 hrs to the bottom of the canyon, where the bridge crosses the Colca River. Once across the bridge, it’s only a short distance to San Juan de Chucho where you can find lodging at a number of different places. I opted to stay at the first place I came to, called Posada Roy, located just before the village itself. I had decided to stop early so that I could explore and just relax.

The room I rented at Posada Roy was really pleasant and the grounds were nicely landscaped. My room had a comfortable bed and a really hot shower, plus the owners cooked me dinner and breakfast. Total cost was around 30 soles.

In the Colca Canyon, there are a myriad of trails, all unmarked, known well by the locals. To be sure you are on the right one, just ask! Before I even thought about asking, the woman who owned the lodge pointed me in the right direction, always reassuring.

Even being careful, I ran into two minor problems. One was that the main trail looked like it was fading out or had turned into a secondary trail. I thought about turning back but that did not seen right either!. By looking down and studying the trail where I was, I could see footprints of other hikers who used hi-tech hiking shoes, not what I would expect the locals to wear. Lucky for me, I had belonged to the Bay Area Mountain Rescue group for quite a few years and had tracking experience! Otherwise, I might have wasted time retracing my steps.

Moving on. From the map I had picked up at Pachamama Hostel, I knew I had to cross a bridge eventually and start climbing up the hill to the next two villages (Cosnirhua and Malata). Once you cross the bridge, the climb gets moderately steep. When I got to the top, there was a woman selling water, soft drinks, and fruits. I bought a couple of bananas.

When you arrive at the top of the little climb, go on for a short distance and make sure to take a sharp right turn when you reach some buildings. This gets you on the right trail towards the next two villages where there are places to stay. Do not go down the hill on another obvious trail. Once you get on the trail through the villages, it is easy going to get to Sangalle (also called the oasis).

The Oasis. From Malata, the last village, it does not take long to get to Sangalle. Once you get a good view of Sangalle and the swimming pool, you may just think about a cool swim and cold beer because it does get quite warm in the canyon during the day.

I arrived in Sangalle before noon and got a room at for 30 soles (around 10 dollars) a night; food was economical while beer and water seemed expensive, probably because they have to bring it in by mule.

The rooms consist of a simple bamboo hut (bungalow) with a dirt floor, a bed and a table. Camping is also available for 5 soles. There is a shower for washing off, really just a pipe with cold water.

I decided to have lunch there — soup, meat, and rice and very satisfying. After lunch, I went back to my bungalow and got ready for a swim and a beer. Dinner was good but simple, pretty much the same as lunch.

There were people from all over the world staying at the hostal. Everyone ate at one table so it was easy to carry on a conversation with someone and learn about their home country, experiences in Peru, and plans for the Colca hike.

Hiking back to the top.The next day I got up fairly early as to make it back to the top before it warmed in the afternoon. The hike out is straightforward, straight up out of the

canyon. For those who prefer not to walk back out, there are mules for hire that take them up the trail in the morning.
It took me about three hours to get to the top were the trail levels out. From there it was a short distance back to Cabanaconde.

When I arrived back in town, there was a celebration taking place: the Patronal Feast of the Chapi Virgin. It provided an excellent end to a great hike. I made two YouTube movies about that celebration you can watch on our movie page.

Please feel free to contact me if you would like any information on hiking in the Colca Canyon.

Major hiking trails in the Colca Canyon.

Click on map for larger image.